Saint-Bris is Burgundy’s great exception: the region’s only appellation for Sauvignon, created in 2003 and confined to the village of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux. Bersan’s cuvée comes from twenty-to-twenty-five-year-old Sauvignon Blanc vines on Portlandian limestone plateaus, mostly north-facing, an exposure that brings the fruit slowly to an ideal ripeness. Gentle pneumatic pressing is followed by fermentation with indigenous yeasts only, without added enzymes, and the wine is raised entirely in stainless steel. It is vivid and spirited, unfolding grapefruit and mandarin, peach and crushed blackcurrant leaf with an exotic hint of lychee, the palate ample and floral through a long finish.